Archives for May 2022

May 15, 2022 - 2 comments

Redhorsing around

I can’t remember when I learned that people snare river redhorse, but I am sure the desire to do it followed quickly. The fish were known to me because of many sightings while canoeing on different sections of the Cahaba. Others had told me that they were sucker fish you couldn’t easily catch with a hook.  They are bottom-feeders, eating clams, mussels, snails and insect larvae.

Unlike Cahaba Lilies, river redhorse are not limited to a small area that includes the Cahaba Watershed.  The National Park Service reports they live in clear streams and rivers with sandy, rocky bottoms throughout the eastern United States and into Canada. It also states they do not live in waters with significant sediment or pollution.  (In my discussions about redhorsing with Charles Griffen, he told me that in the 1950’s they came up Buck Creek as far as the mineral railroad trestle until development upstream decreased the water quality.) River redhorse aren’t even the only type redhorse in Alabama. Other varieties include the black, blacktail, grayfin, silver, shorthead, golden and “greater jumprock”.  

After learning of snaring, I read articles and watched videos about the its history and practice. My first attempt to connect with someone who could take me was through a patient who has lived in Bibb County for many years.  That area has some families for whom this is a tradition passed down for generations.  I asked clumsily if he knew anyone who lassoed redhorse.  He corrected my terminology and said that he did.  I made contact and over the next two years tried to get down near Montevallo with him in the spring to learn.  It never happened because of unfavorable weather and high water levels.

Then another patient told me that Ken Penhale had a redhorse mount at the Helena Museum.  Ken also had a pole and wire snare, as well as a copy of an old newspaper article about Charles Griffen and his redhorse snaring.  Ken volunteered to introduce me to Charles.  We had several discussions about his fishing, as well as his extensive collection of Native American artifacts.  We also made plans for me to join him sometime in April to attempt snaring my first redhorse.  

In April when Charles called to tell me he had continued his consecutive streak of snaring redhorse every year since he learned as a child, I was on a trip with my wife and wouldn’t get back until the spawning was completed.

So, I decided to do all I could to be available and ready for this year.  I asked Charles if it was possible to predict by date when the spawning would occur.  When he responded that it was April 18-20th, I took the step of scheduling time off from my practice on those days.  With my guide being over 80 years old, I wanted to do my best to experience this while he was able.  I justified it as a bucket list item- honestly, I have referred to it as my “redneck bucket list”.  Charles added that the spawning was sometimes delayed by a cold weather front coming through, because water temperature had to be warm enough. (The Alabama Department of Conservation Website says water temps between 71 and 76 degrees is needed;  https://www.outdooralabama.com/redhorse/river-redhorse.). Rain early in the week caused the water to be to muddy and high during the target dates.  This worked fine for my schedule because my mom was hospitalized and I needed to spend time there.  On Thursday night I got a call from Charles.  He had snared a redhorse that afternoon, continuing his streak of 72 consecutive years. He also felt the water level should work for Saturday morning. My schedule was clear and the weather looked good.  I was encouraged everything was finally going to come together.

Charles has an old orange telescoping pole that he has used for many years. The traditional way is to cut long sections of river cane, lay 3 pieces side to side, tie them together, and hang them vertically for several weeks from a high limb with a weight on the bottom to straighten them.  He had been unsuccessfully looking for a newer telescoping crappie pole, but had been told they may no longer be available.  In 2021, Helena’s True Value hardware store ordered several for him.  They finally arrived early in 2022.  Charles bought all six, giving most away to friends and family- including me.  He was proud to get them because they are hollow except for the end section.  This reduces the weight, which is helpful when you are trying to hold and control a 16-17 foot pole over the water for several hours.

Our group met at Charles’ house early on Saturday.  In addition to myself, and Charlie, Jr., a friend who had not fished with them for twenty years also joined us.  We headed to an area on the Little Cahaba River in Bibb County. The redhorse come back to the same area to spawn.  Their presence was confirmed by Charles and Charlie during their successful Thursday visit.  At the river’s edge we slid down the sandy bank into a side channel of the river and then waded through it to an island.  On its other side, the male redhorse had made a bed in the sand 15-20 feet into the river.   Its depth was less that two feet, and it was  three to four feet wide and a bit longer.  

I was the only first-timer in our group, and struggled with the task.  Seeing the fish was difficult because the sun in a cloudless sky produced a blinding reflection off the river, but also because the water was just stained enough to prevent me seeing the fish in the bottom of the bed.  Keeping the snare vertical in the water with the weight grazing the bottom, trying to correctly judge if it was in line with the fish or on this side or the far side, and adjusting as the fish moved back and forth in the current were the other contributors to my challenge.  

The others were quick to snare their first fish, and did it with a practiced smoothness.  After many empty passes, and a few initial successes from which the fish escaped quickly, I was able to land my first redhorse.  I eventually landed three (and almost brought in several more).  Charlie, Jr. assured me I did well for my first trip.  In the past they had someone who failed completely the first two years he joined them.

Interestingly, Charles remarked that they had not seen that many redhorse, or as many large ones, in many years.  It was a great day for an old friend and a new one to share with him the river and a passionate hobby.

VB

May 12, 2022 - 2 comments

The Penultimate Float

One night as scouts and men from Boy Scout Troop 96 of Vestavia were sitting around a campfire after rafting the Ocoee River, a father talked about a backpacking trip he and his son made in Philmont, New Mexico.  He described the great experience they had and said that it was his penultimate scouting experience.  As we drove home the next day, I brought up the possibility that the word penultimate was incorrect. The father was relating what he considered to be the best trip he had made while involved with scouts.  Someone quickly confirmed via the internet that his vocabulary choice was wrong.  He had mistakenly described that trip as his “next to last” scouting experience.

Penultimate accurately depicts the float we made from Trussville’s Civitan Park in March, 2020. I had wanted to float Section 1 of the Cahaba River for several years.  As I paddled “new” sections of the river and could begin considering completing every mile of the river, I decided that the stretch from Booth’s Ford to Living River would be a great “last run” because it had few shoals, was not too long, or too far from home and would therefor allow my family the opportunity to finish the Cahaba with me.  After the canoeing season of 2019 the only other part I had not done was near its origin.  

Like most trips on the Cahaba River above the fall line, being able to canoe from Trussville depends on the water level, which is primarily is determined by rainfall.  Inadequate water means a long, physically difficult day of dragging canoes across scores of shoals.  Too much creates a dangerous situation that should only be attempted by experienced white water paddlers.  The sweet spot for this run was reportedly a narrow flow rate between 60 and 100 cfs on the USGS gage at Trussville. This often meant a trip was only possible during or right after rain.  That restriction and the limited number of Saturdays on which other activities (like family birthdays in the spring) did not take precedence, caused this trip to remain out of grasp.

My goal to paddle every mile of the Cahaba and the above difficulties almost caused me to get into trouble.  I read an article recently that points out that we think we make choices based on logic, but they are often more emotional than logical.

One weekend looked promising due to clear skies and flow rates dropping through the target range following rain on Friday.  Unfortunately, my usual canoeing partners were not available.  Another friend, who had no experience on moving water, said he was interested in making the trip with me after church on Sunday afternoon.  There were several potential problems with this plan:

  • although I had done some arm-chair research on this part of the Cahaba (Foshee’s Alabama Float Trips and Canoe Rides and cahabariversociety.org) I had never seen it, much less scouted it (this ignorance factors in later);  
  • I knew nothing about the abilities (and possible liabilities) of my inexperienced partner;
  • We were starting this trip in the afternoon, which meant we had the unforgiving deadline of darkness.

We were saved from potential danger by another bit of poor preparation on my part.  I hurriedly loaded my canoe on the truck, attaching it with a transverse ratchet-strap mid-body, two ropes up front and a single in the back (which was just long enough to tie with a trucker’s hitch).  On I-459 near Derby Parkway, the knot loosened and the rope flew free from the tie-down in the back of the truck.  Suddenly, the bow of my canoe bounced repeatedly on my hood.  Fortunately, the other attachments held until I could pull to the side of the road. I found an additional ratchet-strap and retied the stern with it.  This delay allowed me to realize that we would have been stuck on the river after dark if we continued with this attempt.  It was only after I finally made canoed this section that I learned I was significantly underestimating the length.

In the spring of 2020 the variables seemed to align.  My younger son, Ben, and a friend, Scott Watson, were both available on a Saturday.  The weather was sunny and wind not significant.       The only concern was that the amount of water flowing was below the ideal threshold. It was gradually decreasing after an inch of rain a few days prior.  When we put in it would likely be around 45 cubic feet per second.  As long as the river was not running above the recommended range I felt we would be okay- I have pulled canoes over shoals many times.  

Ben and I would be in my 16 foot Old Town canoe.  Scott would be in his trusty mini-kayak he bought when the Academy Sports on 280 went out of business.  At 8 feet long it is the perfect size for him to be able to single-handedly haul in the back of his truck, and tote in and out of the water.  He has used it to fish in several streams since our first float together, a September, 2019 trip down the Tallapoosa River- an experience he credits with opening a new passion to him.   He has solo paddled and fished many streams since then, but his favorite is likely Blackwater Creek near Jasper.  In addition to hooking him on this form of outdoor adventure, I believe my other contribution which has helped him enjoy this more fully was the loan of a kayak paddle.  Previously he was using a short canoe paddle for propulsion and steering.  

Scott frequently asks me to let him know when I am planning a trip.  So when I told him Ben and I were going to paddle for a few hours, he eagerly signed on.  Unfortunately, even I didn’t know what we were getting into.   It was going to be a longer, tougher day than expected.

We began at a leisurely pace, frequently stopping along the way to fish at spots that looked promising.  As the morning passed, and we enjoyed the water, scenery and camaraderie, I kept my eyes out for a landmark that would let us know we were about halfway through-  a walking bridge across the river at Camp Coleman.  After we passed this, we would come to the one rapid which required careful attention. The main landmark was a large flat rock on the left with the river running through a slot on the right.  When we came to that formation without seeing the walking bridge, I decided that it must have been removed. We cautiously proceeded and both vessels made it through without a problem.  I felt good about how things were going until another hour or so downstream, we came to Camp Coleman and the walking bridge.  This meant several things.  The main one being that we were not as far along as I had thought.  So, we had several more hours on the river.  Our fishing now had to take a back seat to paddling down the river at a good pace.  The other thing was that the “rapid” we went through wasn’t the big one.  (A minor disappointment was that my GoPro 3 battery ran out and I did not get to film going through the most exciting part of the trip.)

The rapid was awaiting us downstream.  It did require some consideration, and as we stood on the rock we were able to enjoy seeing the waterfall which came into the river below.  Scott decided that his boat and skills were not ready for this challenge today.  After we “portaged” the kayak across the rock, Ben and I prepared for our attempt.  We paddled upstream, then turned and stayed to river right.  We maintained steady strokes and went smoothly through the standing wave at the bottom of the rapid.  We did end up in the water later, though.  We were approaching the tall pilings of an old railroad bridge.  As we came through a shoal we somehow lurched to the side and capsized.  

Now that I have marked this section off of my to-do list, I already want to do it again.  I think from start to finish it is one of the more scenic sections.  With its 20+ shoals it is fun to navigate.  I also had to skip many “can’t miss” fishing spots in the lower portion due to my poor planning and the time pressure that resulted.

I was concerned that the low river flow was going to create problems.  However, there was only once or twice where we had to pull the canoe across a shoal.

May 10, 2022 - 1 comment.

The Ultimate

After more than 26 years, 30 trips, and paddle strokes beyond my calculations, we were preparing to finish the only section of the Cahaba River I had not done.  Closing in on this goal, I purposely left this section for the end because I thought it would be easy for the Blackburn ladies to join.  It fit this criteria because it was a shorter section than many, was within a couple hours driving from our homes, and would have bathroom access immediately before and after the float.

I have mentioned elsewhere that spring has been a difficult time to get all of our family together for canoe trips.  We have anniversaries and several birthdays to celebrate which when combined with seeking appropriate weather and river flow, limit the possibilities.  This is especially true of the section of the Cahaba that begins in the park at Trussville. It is there that the river becomes large enough to float.  But it requires the right timing because of a small window of ideal flow. If it is lower than 60 cubic feet per second, the multiple shoals threaten to stop your boat many times. When it is above 90 cfs, you will encounter whitewater that most don’t have the skills to handle.  In the spring of 2020 my patience wore thin and my son, Ben, and friend, Scott Watson, attempted it-successfully- despite a flow rate of 45 cfs (see the Penultimate Float). With that completed, I was ready to do the trip that would tie it all together. 

We were aided greatly by the hospitality of the Living River Retreat on the Cahaba.  This was our take-out at the end of the float, so when we dropped off two vehicles we were able to make the last pre-trip toilet stop.

We put in at Booth’s Ford, on the “wild west” side across from Shelby County’s Cahaba River Park. I have heard stories of this area that led me to consider putting in on the north side of the river, but that would require an extra hour of driving.  One such story was of a friend who’s group launched from here to do an overnight trip.  Upon returning the next day to get their vehicle, someone had punctured and drained their gas tank. Since ours was just a day trip, and was during a time of year when many people would be at the river, I decided the risk of vandalism was low.

Our group was comprised of my wife, my daughter and her husband, and a son and his wife. Part of being in our family is that you will be invited (strongly encouraged) to canoe on the Cahaba River.  A rite of passage into the family is a spring float trip to Hargrove Shoals to enjoy the lilies.  So, this was not the first time in a canoe on moving water for anyone in our group.  In fact all of the men on the trip had each canoed over 50 miles.  

Like many paddlers, I have acquired several canoes over the years.  I have an old Grumman aluminum camouflage-painted canoe passed down from my father.  The “top of the line” river vessel in my fleet is a red Old Town St. George River model I bought through craigslist from a lady who brought it from Wisconsin when she moved to Birmingham.  My other, which my wife and I were using for the first time, was a 14 foot Northeast Outfitters. It was acquired in an unusual way.  It had been abandoned by some trespassers on a private lake at which I have a fishing membership.  When no one returned to claim it after several months, I suggested to the ruling authorities that it would be a shame for the canoe to sit and rot.  I offered to give it a good home, and assured that if the owners were brave enough to request it, I would give it back.  It is still in my possession two years later.  With these three canoes, we had adequate boats for our crew. We would not need to go through the hassle or cost of borrowing or renting.  That was a decision I regretted within a short time of being on the water.  I quickly realized that this canoe would be best used for some relaxing paddling on a lake, not for covering 6-7 miles on a river without much current.  So, the oldest couple on the river was also having to work harder than the others to maintain the pace.  My wife didn’t say it this time, but the words she has said in many other situations definitely applied, “You get what you pay for!”

A Boy Scout troop had the same float plan as our group. One of the adult leaders was able to take our group picture just prior to them launching.  (My favorite Boy Scout interaction on the Cahaba River is detailed in “River hitchhiking.”)

I think that most enjoyable activities have a part that is not fun and must be tolerated to get to “the good stuff.”  One of those for paddling rivers is the effort (sometimes struggle) of getting into and out of the river.  You know in advance that the interior of your vehicle will collect some sand/dirt and perhaps even mud. The take-out at the end of our trip began with paddling into the mouth of a small creek. Then we had to climb out onto the slippery bank.  Rains over the previous week created a 15 yard mud flat to slog through with gear and boats.  It is amazing how a vessel which moves smoothly and effortlessly on water, becomes heavy and bulky whenever it leaves its environment.  Fortunately, I was able to get my son and son-in-law to do the hard work.

This accomplishment has great value for me.  Yes, it is something few people have done. But its meaning is much deeper because it is something that allowed hours with friends and family (starting with the only Cahaba River trip my Dad and I shared), and created great memories along the way. 

(See my Complete Trip Log.)

May 10, 2022 - 3 comments

Complete Trip Log

Cahaba River

Trip Log

1995-2021

Vance Blackburn

Trussville to White’s Chapel (US 10- County 11)   7 miles
March 2020 Ben, Scott Watson

White’s Chapel to US 78                                            8.4m
July 2013 Ben

US 78 to Grant’s Mill Rd.                                            5.9m
March 2014 solo

Grant’s Mill Rd to 280                                                13.2m                      INITIAL SECTION
1995 or 96 (to Old Overton) Dad
Apr 2015 Jim

280 upstream and back
Apr 03 Will, Ben
Mar 04 Will, Ben
Apr 04 Will
May 13 moonlight/CRS
Aug 14 moonlight/CRS Karen, Sean and Susan Doyle

280 dam to Caldwell Mill Rd                                     3.1m
Apr 15 Jim

Caldwell Mill Rd to Lorna Rd                                     8.2m
Apr 2013 Will and Ben

Lorna Rd to Helena (County 52)                               9.8m
Apr 13 Jim

Buck Creek (Highway 261)
May 18; to the Cahaba and back, solo.

Helena to Shelby County CR Park                            16.4m
March 2019 Overnight
Jim, Greg Graves, Stan Huff, Ted Ferrell, Drew Warren, Andy Harrison

S.C. CR Park to Living River (Tate’s Landing)           6m                             FINAL SECTION
May 2021 Karen, Caroline, Jim, Will, Sarah

Living River to CR National Wildlife Refuge             16.7m
Apr 2014 Art and Arthur Smith, Zoe

CR National Wildlife Refuge to Pratt’s Ferry            6.6m
May 2013 Will, (Huntsville Boy Scouts)

Lily trips CRNWR to Hargrove Shoals and back
May 04 CRS Will, Ben
May 10 CRS Caroline
May 16 Karen, Caroline, Jim
May 16 Karen, Will, Sarah
May 17 Ben
May 19 Karen, Ben, Eden

Pratt’s Ferry to US 82                                                    8.8 m
May 14 Ben, Jim, Brock Armstrong

US 82 to Harrisburg Bridge                                         11.7m
Oct 13 Jim, Zoe, Ryan Graul, Paul (the VC intern), Alan Raudenbush

Harrisburg Bridge to Jericho Bridge                           11.3m                                                                 Oct 06 Karen, Caroline, Ben, Winston Crowder

Jericho to Sprott                                                             11.5m
Oct 04 Overnight w CRS Will, Ben                                                                                                         March 07 Overnight w Troop 96. Ben
Oct 07 Overnight w CRS Will
Oct 08 Overnight w Valleydale Church middle schoolers, Ben
Oct 11 to Barton’s Beach Will, Hoang and Caleb Huynh
Oct 12 Matt Howard, Drew Warren, Mark Kelinski

Oxbow Lakes, Perry County CR Park
2017 CRS, Karen

Sprott to Radford                                                            7.3m
Oct 10 Will, Ben, Jonathan Mooney

Radford to Suttle                                                             9.1m                                                                    May 10 overnight Will, Ben, Zoe

Suttle to US80                                                                  9.7m
May 12 Will

US 80 to Old Cahawba/Alabama River                         25m                                                                       May 16 Overnight. Ben, Jim, Mike and David Blackburn, Caleb Huynh, Andrew Smith, Art           and Arthur Smith

Total                                                                              195.7m